Rafting the Tatshenshini and Alsek Rivers (End) 13/25-Aug-2018

Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska

DAY 9: Walker Glacier to Gateway Knob

Rain dogged us as we ate breakfast, broke camp, loaded the rafts, and started off toward Alsek Lake.  And then the wind picked-up. I have to say that sitting on a cold raft in damp clothes while being flayed by the wind and rain is not my happy place but it did produce a sincere promise to upgrade my rain gear (sorry, but GoreTex just doesn’t cut it under these conditions).

We floated down the Alsek, while cold water found its way into places on my body that I’d rather it didn’t, to a lunch stop just short of Alsek Lake.  Here the Alsek and Grand Plateau Glaciers flow into the lake, calving off massive chunks of ice and creating a wonderland of icebergs. After lunch, we walked across the peninsula to see the icebergs in the lake.  Seeing the bergs was a major hoped for part of this trip and, although the weather wasn’t cooperating, what we could see of them was pretty special.  Unfortunately, the weather kept us from seeing Mount Fairweather (4,671 m / 15, 325 ft), which rises above the landscape to the southeast.

In the desert, The LovedOne has a penchant for finding rattlesnakes. Here, in The North, she found quicksand – fortunately Jock was able to haul her to safety in time – and without loss of her boots!  Cleaned-up and back in the rafts, we worked our way through the icebergs along the west side of Alsek Lake to a campsite at the southern end of Gateway Knob.  Icebergs create unique hazards as they can flip or crack in half causing huge waves and rough water (which a huge one did later directly across from our campsite).  It was still raining on and off, so we set-up camp (including the campfire) under tarps and settled-in for drinks and dinner.

Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Packing-up at Walker Glacier
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Cue the brave rafter smile
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
We stopped at Dipper Creek for clear water
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
The Alsek is a big river and our rafts are small
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Stopping for lunch above Alsek Lake
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Hiking out to see the icebergs
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
The Alsek Glacier
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Icebergs (some with horns)
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
The LovedOne (blue pants) finds the quicksand
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
The LovedOne flashes her “quicksand survivor” smile
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Past the icebergs
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Destined to tip
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Beyond most of the icebergs
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
In Alsek Lake just off of Gateway Knob
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
On the beach at Gateway Knob

DAY 10: Gateway Knob

The rain came and went all day so we were pretty much confined to the tarps, with the occasional foray out to see the sights (overcast and fog permitting). Some of the crew took advantage of a break in the drizzle to be rowed around some of the larger icebergs near camp but the highlight of the day was Kimberly’s polar plunge into Alsek Lake. She had decided that’s what she wanted to do and, with appropriate safety measures, that’s exactly what she did. We all had to put on an extra warm layer just to watch. After that, it was more tarp time and the trip’s final dinner – Greek-style lamb with salad and sides, plus, of course, dessert.

Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Tarp life at Gateway Knob
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
The overcast rose just enough to reveal the snouts of the Alsek and Grand Plateau Glaciers across the lake
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
A closer look at the Alsek and Grand Plateau Glaciers
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Waiting for Mr. Sunshine
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Life in the waters
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Rowing out for a berg close-up
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Kimberly goes for her glacial moment…
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
And she’s done it!

DAY 11: Dry Bay & Return to Whitehorse

We left Gateway Knob earlier than usual because the pilots weren’t sure the weather was going to be good enough later for a landing at the gravel air strip at Dry Bay.  One part of the “adventure” aspect of this trip was in not knowing whether things would go exactly as planned.  Poor weather conditions on the coast could have meant that we wouldn’t be able to get a flight out the day we reached the take-out; we might have had to wait through cold and wet conditions for suitable flying weather.  Oh, goody.  So there was some tension in the air as we floated the last bit of the Alsek to our take-out.

Back in the day, rafts could float a channel almost to the air strip but that channel is now filled-in, so a local guy (Pat) trailered all our gear (it took several trips) the 2 km or so from the beach to the air strip.  There we waited for a couple of hours for the welcome sound of the planes (one for us, another for the gear). After some passes between the low ceiling and the trees (VFR – really?), they zoomed in and landed. Canadian pilots rock! YEAH!  Then it was load ’em up and back to Whitehorse for hot showers and a group dinner at the Coast High Country Inn.  All in all, a truly amazing trip, weather and all!

Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Saying good-bye to Alsek Lake
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
The final stretch on the Alsek River
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Unloading at Dry Bay; this used to be a channel of open water
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Pat arrives with his ATV and trailer
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
At the campground near the old take-out and air strip
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
One plane has landed and the other is making its final pass before landing
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Heading back to Whitehorse on schedule!
Tatshenshini River Alsek River Yukon Territory Canada Glacier Bay National Park Alaska
Coming full circle, we passed over Sediments Creek on the way back
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5 thoughts on “Rafting the Tatshenshini and Alsek Rivers (End) 13/25-Aug-2018

Add yours

  1. Thanks. Yes, cold & wet. Convinced me that GoreTex isn’t good enough when things get really wet…

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  2. Great trip report and photos (as usual)! But you are right; I would have been cccccold….

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  3. Enjoyed your post. Tried to comment on Word Press, but too much rigamarole. Amazed at your productivity! Lovely photos. Hi to the Loved One.

    Mary Korbulic wwws.ordinarylife-mk.blogspot.com

    Like

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