Tourism is a key part of Southern Oregon’s economy and this year that part is really hurting. So we miss the tourists, even though we don’t necessarily want to be surrounded by them. Which is why we never go to Crater Lake National Park (or any of the other major national parks within a day’s drive) during the summer season. But this year, as some of you may have noticed, is different (and not in a good way). So we decided to test the tourist waters – so to speak – with a loop hike at Crater Lake. From Rim Village, we went down the Dutton Creek Trail, north on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), back up to the Rim on the Lightning Spring Trail, and back to the village on the Rim and Discovery Point Trails, for a 13-mile, 1,400 feet of gain loop.
We could tell things were off when we pulled into the parking area at the Village and found it mostly empty. Granted it was early morning but in a “normal” year this parking lot would probably have never emptied. Going down the Dutton Creek Trail we passed four day hikers and one backpacker coming up.
There’s a campsite at the Dutton-PCT junction (popular with thru-hikers) but this year it’s closed due to lack of maintenance. From this junction, we went north on the PCT. While the Dutton Creek Trail is distinctly a single-track trail, we couldn’t escape the impression that this section of the PCT (and the Lightning Spring Trail) were old wagon roads back in the day – the wide road prism is still distinctive.
The PCT passes through an area burned by the 2004 Bybee Complex Fire. The sight of this devastation was relieved somewhat by the creeks that were flowing through here and by the fields of colorful wildflowers that had sprung-up among the fallen trees.
After almost five miles on the PCT (and passing just two backpackers), we crossed Lightning Creek and turned up the Lightning Spring Trail toward the Rim. It wasn’t real hot up here at over 6,000 feet, but it was hot enough to start taking some of the stuffing out of us. Fortunately the Lightning Spring Trail makes a more gradual ascent to the Rim than does the Dutton (which is one reason we did this loop clockwise) and we were able to keep plodding on up.
Another reason for doing the loop in this direction is that when we reached the Rim with our butts dragging we were instantly revived (partially at least) by our first view of Crater Lake from the pull-out where the Lightning Spring Trail ends at Rim Drive.
We started back on the Rim Trail which, painfully, leaves the Lightning Spring pull-out by going directly up the side of Point 7319. Some suffering ensued as we struggle up its north slope. 😦 But then the trail eased-off a lot and we didn’t have to do anymore significant climbing between here and Rim Village. 🙂
And then we were back at Rim Village. We passed a fair number of people on the Discovery Point Trail between Lightning Spring and the Village – with the most near the Village. Although some appeared clueless about social distancing, the vast majority adhered to it. Which probably didn’t matter too much since there was a delightfully cool 10 knot breeze blowing over the Rim. We expected the parking lot to be full when we got back but it wasn’t. And there was no traffic congestion into or out of the park. So our happiness 😀 at being able to experience Crater Lake in July was tempered somewhat 😦 by the effect this diminished tourism is having on our local economy. We’re hoping that an effective vaccine comes along much sooner than later…
BOOTS on the TRAIL 
Thanks! It was a rare summer visit to the lake for us. Had forgotten how blue blue can be.
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Your photos are stunning! I can never get over the deep, cobalt blue of Crater Lake. It’s been far too many years since we’ve been there (we haven’t been ‘home’ in the summer for almost 10 years!) but it’s on our list for when we make it back to our hometown in Oregon. That was quite a hike you did, at 13+ miles. I’m going to have fun going back through your blog and will enjoy seeing Oregon through your eyes!
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Thanks! We too were awed by how intensely – almost over the top – blue the lake was this time. We’ve seen it before but this time I think we hit a near ideal combination of sun angle, air clarity, and artful clouds. There’s hiking in this park but 99% of the visitors never make it past the lake (and for good reason 🙂 ).
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Wonderful pictures! Several years ago we were camping at Crater Lake, and the camper next to us (also on his motorcycle) told us that he always thought the lake’s color had been artificially enhanced in photos. He was so surprised, and pleased, to discover that the lake’s color was actually that intense blue and was not fake. He was a professional photographer, as I recall.
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